Britannia Mine Museum

I love it when I can get my family to engage with B.C. history, and visiting the Britannia Mine Museum had been on my to-do list for a long time. A one-way vehicle and driver voucher that we’d received because of a cancelled BC Ferries sailing plus a Family Day Weekend promotion on admission at the museum meant that we had a great opportunity for an off-Island adventure. It did not disappoint!

Taking the 8:25 a.m. ferry from Nanaimo, we arrived right on time for our 11 a.m. reservation at the museum. Soon after, we were heading underground for a guided tour of a haulage tunnel and then into the historic Mill No. 3 for the BOOM! show. We had a quick break for lunch and then spent some time exploring the other buildings and exhibits at our own pace. Overall, we spent three hours at the site and had plenty of time to get back to Horseshoe Bay for our 3:45 p.m. sailing back to the Island. We had a fun time checking out a neat place that we hadn’t been to before and learning about the mining operations there. I’d definitely recommend a visit for other families who are looking for an interesting day trip that contains a healthy dose of British Columbia history.

Van Isle History Explorer Goes North: Bottles

While on my trip north, and particularly while visiting the Dawson City Museum, I kept an eye out for soda bottles, and I was not disappointed. At the museum there was a nice collection of siphons and Hutchinson bottles from the Eldorado Bottling Company and Hutchinson bottles from the Bonanza Bottling Company.

Back home again, I did a little reading about these companies, which were both located in Dawson City. Eldorado operated from about 1899 to about 1916. Bonanza was an earlier company about which little is recorded. In an article written with Julia Pike, bottle collector Phil Culhane suggests that it’s possible that the proprietor of Bonanza Bottling sold his bottling equipment to the proprietor of Eldorado Bottling.1 Given what I know of the soda industry in Nanaimo during the same time period, where equipment had to be imported from afar, it seems like a very plausible story.

Soda bottles in the Dawson City Museum collection

The Bonanza bottles are potentially quite unique because the embossing on some bottles of this type reads “Bonanza Bottle Co. / Dawson City, N.W.T.” Prior to 1898 when the Yukon Territory Act was passed, Dawson City in its early days sometimes was referred to as being in the “Northwest Territories.” “‘The Northwest Territories’ was a blanket term used to cover all ‘other land’ in western and northern Canada for much of the 19th century.”2 Culhane and Pike suggest that the bottles marked with “N.W.T.” were likely used, or at least ordered, prior to 1898. I didn’t know all of this at the time of my visit, and I can’t tell from the angles of my photos if the museum’s bottles have “N.W.T.” embossed on them or not, but it’s certainly interesting.

Another bottle tucked in the corner of a display case was a bit of an unexpected find for this Vancouver Islander – a quart-sized embossed beer bottle from the Victoria Brewing Company.

Victoria Brewing Company beer bottle in Dawson City

With light exposure over time, the originally colourless glass has changed to a lovely amethyst colour. I will say that the bottle was in a display case with a bunch of purple artifacts, so the effect might have been exaggerated somewhat by the adjacent items, but it sure didn’t look clear to me. It’s my understanding that glass which contains manganese is known to irradiate and discolour into various shades of purple over time.

The Victoria Brewing Company was founded in 1859, but the museum’s bottle is not as old as that. In 2020, construction workers digging a trench at Royal Roads University in Colwood found a similar Victoria Brewing Company bottle (although it was amber coloured) and it was dated to around 1910 or 1911, likely from when the stables were constructed at Hatley Castle.3

Victoria Brewing Company bottles from my dad’s collection

I’d seen Victoria Brewing Company bottles with this same embossing before, my dad has two amber ones in his collection. But I’d never seen one that was that lovely amethyst colour. It was fun to see a Vancouver Island bottle so far from home and to think about how it might have made its way to the Klondike.

While in Carcross, a sudden rain storm saw us heading into the bar of the historic Caribou Hotel to get out of the downpour. Once there, I was happy to discover a nice collection of soda siphons. Around the room I counted over 25 different bottles, all intact and all with tops (although I wondered if some of the tops might not be original to the bottles). Most of them were were either clear or various shades of aqua or blue glass, but there were also a few nice green ones. Many of them seemed to be from New York state, particularly from Long Island. But there were also three Canadian bottles – one each from the Nu Jersey-Crème Company of Toronto; the Eskimo Bottle Works of Montreal; and the Polar Aerated Water Works of Calgary. It was hard to take nice pictures, as many of the bottles were set up on window ledges, but I thoroughly enjoyed looking at all the different labels, many of which had been acid etched. What a great collection!


Notes

  1. Phil Culhane and Julia Pike, “Yukon Gold!! The Bottles of Canada’s North,” Canadian Bottle and Stoneware Collector, 8, no. 4 (2004): 51.
  2. Culhane and Pike, “Yukon Gold!!,” 49.
  3. “A sip of history,” Royal Roads University, October 7, 2020, https://www.royalroads.ca/news/sip-history.

Van Isle History Explorer Goes North: Five Finger Rapids

The old barn at my parents’ property contained its fair share of treasures. One interesting item my dad found in there was a framed photograph of a steamship making its way through a narrow channel. There weren’t any accompanying details, and my dad was curious to know more, so he brought the picture to one of the Nanaimo Historical Society’s Show & Share events. Members and guests bring artifacts, stories, and memorabilia to discuss, and he was wondering if anyone could identify either the ship or the location.

Parker Williams, a retired marine engineer, immediately suggested Five Finger Rapids on the Yukon River as a location where the photo might have been taken. Other members with connections to the west coast’s shipping industry strongly agreed. And they were absolutely correct!

Someone who worked for Yukon Tourism and Culture saw my online post asking about the photo and she also confirmed the location as Five Finger Rapids. She suggested reaching out to the Yukon Archives in Whitehorse for help with identifying the ship. I was in touch with Yukon historian Murray Lundberg, who identified the steamboat as the W.K. Merwin. Finally, the mystery was solved!

The W.K. Merwin was a sternwheeler than carried passengers and freight on the Yukon River during the Klondike Gold Rush. She was originally built in Seattle in 1883 and worked for a time on Puget Sound and on the Skagit River before being abandoned. To meet the demand of those rushing to the Klondike, she was put back into use. She was towed up the coast to the mouth of the Yukon River and she arrived in Dawson City in 1898. The W.K. Merwin was wrecked on the beach at Nome, Alaska in August 1900.

Once I knew more details about the photo, I was able to find it online. It’s a photograph taken by Eric A. Hegg from around 1898, and it is in the collection of the Museum of History & Industry in Seattle. A photographer based out of northwestern Washington, Hegg joined those rushing to the Klondike, setting up photography studios in Alaska, first in Dyea and later in Skagway. In the summer of 1898, Hegg headed to Dawson City, travelling north on the Yukon River in a boat with a homemade darkroom onboard. I wonder if the photo of the W.K. Merwin is from that trip.

On the drive from Whitehorse to Dawson City, the Five Finger Rapids Recreation Site was a must-see for me. We spent about an hour making our way down (and then slowly back up again!) the 219-step staircase that takes you to a viewing platform. Even though I didn’t have my dad’s picture with me, I wanted to see if I could get a modern-day photo of relatively the same spot.

According to the Government of Yukon’s website, the name “Five Finger Rapids” comes from the four islands that split the river into five channels. The rapids were a major obstacle for those heading to the Klondike, and only one of the channels was deep enough for sternwheelers like the W.K. Merwin. Sometimes ships even had to use a cable attached to the rocks to winch themselves upstream. Starting in 1900 and continuing until about 1927, blasting was done to widen the channel.

If you’re looking to visit a historical landscape as well as stretch your legs a little during the long drive between Whitehorse and Dawson City, I recommend you stop in at Five Finger Rapids.

Van Isle History Explorer Goes North: Whitehorse

I was happy to take a recent trip with a friend to Whitehorse, Dawson City, and Atlin, and over the coming weeks, I’ll be sharing a series of posts about my time there.

While I would have loved to make the drive, timewise, it made sense to fly to Whitehorse from Vancouver. We travelled with Air North, and I’d just like to say: “Wow!” Not only did they not charge me for a checked bag, but there was also a complimentary sandwich and a WARM COOKIE! Two thumbs up!

My first significant stop was the S.S. Klondike National Historic Site in Whitehorse.

The S.S. Klondike was launched in 1937 by the British Yukon Navigation Company, a subsidiary of the White Pass & Yukon Route Railway. She replaced an earlier sternwheeler of the same name which had been active from 1929 until her wreck in 1936.

The Klondike carried both passengers and freight, and primarily worked between Whitehorse and Dawson City. Notably, she was the last sternwheeler to be used commercially on the Yukon River. The Klondike was hauled ashore at Whitehorse in 1955 and donated to the Government of Canada in 1960. She was moved to her present site in 1966, designated as a National Historic Site in 1967, and opened to the public in 1981.

There are multiple guided tours offered by Parks Canada throughout the day, but access to the Klondike itself is currently somewhat restricted as she is undergoing restorations. One of just a few remaining steam-powered paddlewheelers of the hundreds that once worked on the Yukon River, the Klondike was definitely worth a visit.

My first day finished off with an evening visit to Miles Canyon. The beautiful turquoise waters of the Yukon River are a lot tamer now due to the nearby hydroelectric dam, but during the initial stages of the Klondike Gold Rush, many boats were wrecked in the canyon’s dangerous rapids.

We hiked for about an hour on parts of the extensive trail network in the area. The first point of interest was the Robert Lowe Bridge. Named after a long-serving politician, the 85-foot suspension bridge was built in 1922 as a tourist attraction. We also checked out the former site of Canyon City, a gold rush ghost town. Very little evidence is left of the townsite, which at one time apparently included a hotel, saloon, restaurant, store, stables, machine shop, and a North-West Mounted Police post, but there’s some interpretive signage and a restored tramway car. Prior to being a stopping place for those heading to the Klondike, the area was used for fish camps by local First Nations communities.

Even though we’d spent a good part of the day travelling to get there, I felt pretty happy about my initial day in the Canadian North.